Between 1980 and 2020, the number of female prisoners has grown to over231,000women.

But the reality is access to makeup while incarcerated can help with self-esteem and fostering community.

The use of makeup wasbanned in New Yorkpenitentiaries until 1920.

Woman wearing orange shirt staring into the distance

Getty Images / Maksim Chernyshev / EyeEm

Nearly 80 years later, Virginiaattempted to ban cosmetics in its prisonin 1998, viewing them as potential contraband.

Today, access to makeup and personal hygiene products is less restricted.

Gomez had no access to cosmetics while in county jail.

When she moved to a state prison, things were a bit different.

Once a month, they were given 24 sanitary pads, a toothbrush, and toothpaste.

In most prisons, incarcerated individuals can buy items every one to two weeks.

Unsurprisingly, the hair care selections were also meager, especially for Afro, coily hair.

Many incarcerated people are forced to create their own products when desired items are unavailable.

Robinson says she arrived at jail amid a lice outbreak that required them to wash their hair constantly.

As someone with coily hair, frequently washing her hair caused damage.

When it comes to DIY beauty products in prison, bartering can play a huge role.

Cutting says some people exchanged food for components needed to create makeup.

Of course, doing this was with risk.

“The significance of having the cosmetology spaces was twofold,” Gomez notes.

Some progress has been made since then.

“If you don’t give inmates a good platform, you’re just making them miserable and resentful.

You’re not teaching them if you do the right thing, you get the right thing.

Instead, it’s a matter of mental health and survival.